Key Takeaways
- Chinese researchers have developed a dress made from living Cordyceps militaris fungus.
- The material can repair itself when damaged and has properties like UV protection.
- Engineered yeast cells add color, while other fungi enhance its functionality.
Researchers at the Chinese Academy of Sciences have created a groundbreaking dress made from living Cordyceps militaris fungus. This innovative textile can not only repair itself when damaged but also offers additional functionalities such as UV protection.
Ke Li, leading the project, explains that the material feels denser and less fibrous than cotton, resembling a soft non-woven sheet or flexible leather-like texture. After washing and processing, it does not emit a strong mushroom-like smell; instead, a slight biological or fermentation-related odour may be detectable but can be reduced through cleaning and post-treatment.

To add color to the material, Li's team introduced yeast cells engineered to produce orange, blue, and purple pigments. These cells generate color biologically rather than using conventional synthetic dyes. The researchers also demonstrated that by adding other fungi, they could modify the textile’s properties. For instance, Aspergillus niger was used to provide UV protection through a dark layer containing melanin pigment.
One of the most remarkable features of this living textile is its self-healing capability. When damaged, fresh, wet fungal pellets can be applied to the area that needs repair, and the fungus will grow over the breach. Under dry conditions, most biological activity is greatly reduced, allowing the cells to remain inactive or dormant. However, under humid conditions with nutrients present, some cells can become active again, enabling functions such as regrowth and repair.
Another significant advantage of this material is its biodegradability. Li notes that it shows near-complete visible degradation in soil after just over 40 days, making it an environmentally friendly alternative to traditional textiles.
The development of this self-healing, multifunctional textile opens up new possibilities for the fashion industry and beyond. It not only addresses sustainability concerns but also offers innovative solutions for clothing that can adapt and heal itself under various conditions.
While still in its early stages, this research paves the way for future innovations in sustainable and functional textiles. As Li continues to explore the potential of living fungi in textile production, it is clear that we are witnessing a significant shift towards more eco-friendly and self-repairing materials.





